Next Hex Climbing Course Nov 1 - 24, 2021
So after climbing for maybe around 6 years, I partially decided and partially got convinced that doing a course would be a good idea to learn about training and how to actually improve instead of just climbing at the same level forever. The course is Next Hex at the Hive Vancouver location, and we met twice a week on Mondays and Wednesdays from 8-10 PM for climbing, training, and a little bit of socializing. There were 7 of us in the class, and our instructors were Alistar and Sarah.
Goals
On our first class we set up some goals which I probably could have done a little more thinking about beforehand, but came up with:
- Send one climb on the Moon Board. (starts at v4)
- Practice really trying my very best.
- Get skills to learn how to eventually climb a 5.12 outside.
We did get on the Moon Board for a bit just trying to get to the top by any means necessary which was very tough and I didn't quite get (one of us in the class did though.) I think it's totally do-able and is the definitely the way to get started doing actual routes on it. Coach Sarah set up a "The Next Hex" layout in the app which has most of the good holds lit up. I also got to practice trying really hard (honestly probably even trying my absolute very best,) mostly with flashing practice which was really good. Still to do is some more practice projecting really hard routes.
Curriculum
Warmup (~5 mins)
- jumping jacks
- arm circles
- waist circles
- finger flicks
- hip hinges
Climbing warmup + Drills (~15 mins)
- Quiet feet
- Crush footholds / pull off the wall on steep climbs
- One foot only and flag / smear the other, then climb again and swap
- Move with both hands at once, and try maximum hang time
Skills (~30 mins)
- Heel hooks: How to look for, what they're good for, and point toes for full leg activation.
- Dynos: Push down with hands right before launch, grab with muscles activated to stick better and prevent swinging.
- Route reading + reflect on how if beta matched reality
- Toe hooks (not in class, todo Kevin)
- Slab tips + technique (not in class, todo Kevin)
Hangboarding 1x/week (~20 mins)
- We did 10s on, 30s off x3 sets, then swap over and do it a second time after.
- For the future repeaters 7s on, 3s off for 60s, then 10s hangs around the board.
Hard bouldering (~45 mins - 1hr)
- Practice flashing on the new sets!! Always try to read the route and imagine myself climbing it. This is a skill to practice itself.
- To force trying hard, set a 3 tries max, then go somewhere else.
- Try different beta instead of just the same thing over again.
- Try the routes that are not my style.
Strength Training (~10 mins)
- Pushups, wrist curls, squats, pullups circuit.
- 30s on, 30s off, 15s to move to the next station, and repeat circuit two times.
- Go with a friend so it's not so boring.
Stretching (~5 mins)
- Seems important, but kinda hard for me to tell.
- Wrist stretches palms down then up, one leg forward beside hands, butterfly stretch.
- Bonus breathing exercises are good for sleeping after class.
Progress
| Activity | November 1 | November 24 |
|---|---|---|
| Max crimp hang (*) | 37s | 50s |
| Plank | 48s | 1:10 |
| Pull-ups | 6 | 10 |
| Push-ups | 13 | 18 |
- Beastmaker 2000 large edge / 30mm
I think all the measured amounts are the strongest that I've ever been, so that is very very cool.
Takeaways / Words of Wisdom
In General: Consistency really is the #1 most important thing for a training plan. Climb (and train and plan) with intention, and climb everything.
For me: I am stronger than I think, so try projecting some harder routes. Use momentum!! Do a ~3 hex climb once regularly, and then again with hip movement and momentum and see how they feel. Try different betas.
I plan to keep hangboarding throughout the winter, and then when next season gets closer get back into a regular training program.